On a recent visit to Florence, Jethro and I spent a glorious afternoon
visiting the famous synagogue in what still appears to be a small but
thriving Jewish quarter.
In 1868 David Levi, President of the Hebrew University, bequeathed
his possessions for the building of this new synagogue. On first
approaching it you are struck by the sight of the huge oxidised dome
and you can’t help noticing the similarity to a mosque.
This is because the Sephardis who built it based it on the Moorish
style, with a dome flanked by towers. The interior of the synagogue is
stunning and walking around is awe-inspiring. The ladies’ galleries
are picked out by sun streaming through the beautiful stained glass
windows.
From September 1943, entire Jewish
families were deported from Florence,
including children and residents of the
Jewish Home for the Aged. Almost all
of them - over four hundred in number
-perished in Auschwitz.
The doors of the holy Ark still bear
marks inflicted by Fascist
bayonets. During the Nazi occupation
the synagogue was used as a garage,
and it was also mined by the
retreating Germans.
Outside there is a garden filled with
exotic plants and a Sukkah was there
too - a very peaceful and moving place. The names of the 248 Jews
of Florence who were murdered by the Nazis are memorialised in the
garden, where a smaller plaque lists Jews who died fighting for Italy
during the First World War.
The first floor museum is fascinating, with some sections illustrating
the history of the Florentine Jews, including during World War Two, and also displaying some very impressive – and very old - religious
and ceremonial objects from brit gowns to yads.
Next door to the synagogue is a lively Kosher restaurant – we tried to
eat there but it was bursting at the seams!
By Marilyn Rowland
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